Article published in the Hanover Post, July 4, 2008:

Out of Africa
‘There's no end to help needed’
Posted by Mary Golem

FORMOSA – Jody Benninger had more reason than many to celebrate the goodness of being Canadian on Canada Day.
The 29-year-old Formosa resident has spent a good portion of the last two years living and working overseas, first with HIV/AIDS sufferers in South Africa and Zambia and more recently working with the elderly in Ghana.
"Oftentimes I hear people complaining of things that most Africans can only ‘dream’ of complaining about one day," Benninger says, "and it's frustrating. It's truly an eye-opening experience to see the way people are forced to live in developing nations so that we may live as comfortably as we do here – especially the elderly."
"In most African countries, there is no such thing as a pension plan or even health care security at all," she noted. "And the elderly in Africa suffer the same problems that come with aging that the elderly do here in Canada, except theirs is coupled with crippling poverty."
Benninger believes Canadians need to take an interest in what is happening outside of Canada's borders. "When we educate ourselves, it becomes a lot more clear why the world works in the funny way it does," she says.
Living her life with what she calls "a life conscientiousness of when you know better, you do better," Benninger says her greatest wish is that through education and awareness, "we can all become pro-active in the quest to bridge the gap between those who have, and those who have not."
In an effort to do that, Benninger will be making a presentation about her journey in Ghana at the White Rose Coffeehouse on Walkerton's Main Street this Fri., July 4, starting at 7:30 pm.
The presentation is open to the public.
Benninger spent from July 2007 to February 2008 on a Canadian International Development Agency (CIDA) funded internship. Help the Aged Canada, based out of Ottawa, is an NGO that is part of the CIDA Internship Program and they recruited Benninger, sending her on the internship with HelpAge Ghana out of Accra, Ghana's capital city, for eight months.
It was an experience Benninger will always remember, but may not necessarily repeat.
While there, she worked on an income-generating project with seniors, as well as helping at and organizing events and activities, including information meetings for seniors.
"This internship taught me to stick with what I know," she said, admitting the knowledge and experience she gained while working as a volunteer with HIV/AIDS sufferers at a transition home in Ottawa while studying at Carleton University in Ottawa for her Honours Sociology degree (2004 graduate) "is really what shaped me as a person" and what also led her to be part of a Development Instructor Program through an international NGO, eventually training in Michigan before going to South Africa in June 2006.
"I never, ever thought I would be working in the HIV/AIDS field," she said upon her return from Zambia in early 2007. "But what I experienced at the transition home was really life-changing. Once you know something, you can't act like you don't know . . . I have always wanted to do something for the betterment of someone else's life and those life experiences at the transition home (where some of the most rejected members of society would come to die of the disease) are what led me to volunteer work in Africa."
Along with teaching and counselling work, her work in Zambia included time in the laboratory actually testing for the virus.
She admits that while she enjoyed the people and her time in Ghana, working with the elderly "is not my thing" but adds it was a good learning experience.
"Just becoming aware of the problems is so important," she said. "Everyone needs someone. And I would hope if I need someone in life, someone would be there. I'd like to live out my daily life with that thought in mind."
She admits she was surprised at the amount of pollution in Accra, Ghana's capital city, and was surprised to learn the pivotal role the country played in the slave trade.
She was also surprised at what she called "the old school mentality" in the country "when it comes to human rights issues" and was shocked to learn from police "to take things into my own hands" when she was robbed of everything she had of value in the country, including her cell phone and digital camera.
"I was basically told there was nothing they could, or would, do for me. It was a good lesson for me – to not get too attached to material things."
What she did learn working with the elderly is the importance of taking time for them in our lives, both overseas and here in Canada. "There were a lot of human rights abuses there. It was hard to take . . . especially difficult to see the elderly being treated so poorly. The elderly need our attention and our patience. We need to be mindful that we'll be there someday too."
Although unsure of what or where she'll be working next, Benninger intends to do whatever she can to help bridge the gap between the developed and the developing world, while at the same time, hoping to inspire others to do the same.
"There is no end to the help that is needed," Benninger said when she returned from working with HIV/AIDS sufferers in Zambia and South Africa.
The same holds true, she learned, for the elderly in Ghana.

Source: http://www.thepost.on.ca/ArticleDisplay.aspx?e=1100525

Bidding farewell to my beloved Ghana...

Feelings of melancholy began taking over my thoughts after my birthday and the celebrations of African Cup ended in mid-February, because I could sense what was coming...

my uninvited departure date from my beloved Ghana.

Back in July 2007, February 28, 2008 seemed far enough away... but it just kept creeping closer and closer as I journeyed on. I don't know if it's just me, but I feel like time slips by quicker the more I age...

and again my thoughts on 'time' emerge again!

Perhaps this is my opportunity to encourage my readers to seize every moment, for we are never promised a moment beyond the next.

It's funny, in a split second, lives change forever.

And just as my life/reality is about to change, it too will only take seconds for me to be in mid-air, leaving the life I knew in the dust and exhaust fumes of my KLM flight...

it isn't a welcome thought, but I know what I must do.

And that is to prepare to move forward into my uncertain future, and capture the moments in time I am granted from my current reality.

I can't explain it, but there is just this uneasy feeling about me leaving Ghana... like I wasn't ready. Like I still had so much I wanted to do... and see... and experience. It was so unlike my first experience in Africa, I guess I can say I just finally fell more deeply in love with the Motherland and all it has to offer with its unprecedented potential.

And just as lover's hearts break when they have to part, mine too was breaking in knowing I had to leave my cherished Ghana and all her special and affectionate people.

My roommates and I decided to have a farewell party at our place, before Cait left for the North to do her wonderful work in Kakpene. So on our last Sunday in Ghana and together, February 24, we had an open house/come and go party. We wanted to say goodbye to all the wonderful Ghanaians who crossed paths with us throughout the 8 months and left their marks on us. I'd guess about 30-40 people came and went throughout the afternoon and it was lovely to see faces that we hadn't seen in months, along with the people we saw practically everyday.

Then on February 26, the Director called us to come into work so the HelpAge Ghana staff and members could bid us farewell. So Beth and I arrived and in true Ghanaian style, waited some few hours before we were needed!

We were called into their volunteer recognition party and asked to take seats at the front. After some moving speeches by Board members Mrs. Olennu, Mrs. Badoo and even Director Ebenezer on the impact Beth and I made throughout our brief time there, we were touched.

And even moved to tears.

I told Beth- being the trooper she is, along with being more composed, and able to manage her emotions better than I throughout the 8 months, to please speak on our behalf because I was so overwhelmed with emotion. She agreed.

Then the elderly began to sing a gospel song, with the lyrics wishing us well on our journey into our futures, that God carry us in the palm of His hand wherever we may go and that we never forget Ghana and come back to visit.

And we both lost it.

So it was our turn to speak, and Beth started out fine... and then she had a meltdown. And we all know I hate goodbyes most in this world, so it took every ounce of me to gain my own composure and get it together to say thank you for all they'd done for us.

Let me tell you... we were quite the sight!

February 28 was quite a chaotic day and thank God my flight was at 10pm! I was running around doing things all day-- then the Director wanted to take Beth and I out for lunch, I lost my bank card... but in the end, I reluctantly packed everything up I wanted to take (though I was seriously trying to stall!).

The HelpAge Ghana van pulled up for the last time into our driveway with Nat, Francisca, Irene, Eric and Beth ready to take me to the airport. I was wondering where Ebenezer was... and there he was--

in his own car, parked behind. He invited me to ride to the airport with him.

It seemed like we were at the airport within 5 mins. (usually a 20 mins. drive) and I was faced with all these wonderful people before me, and for the last time. I remember fighting so hard to be strong to say goodbye to my boss, Ebenezer, then Nat, Irene and Eric... but when it came to saying bye to my sister, Francisca, my emotions got the best of me and I broke into tears.

It literally broke my spirit to have to watch them all drive away from me and Beth... for the last time.

Have I mentioned how much I hate goodbyes yet?!

I can't handle them.

So Beth went to get us a seat at the airport restaurant while I looked for my old pal, Koffie and checked my bags in. On my way in, I met a guy I had met only once- Ian, who works at the airport and made my check-in a cinch! I also met up with Kof and longtime pal, Daniel (who also works at the airport).

We all met up at the restaurant but Daniel had to get back to work, so I hugged him and he wished me well. Then Koffie had to go catch his tro-tro back to Teshie as it was getting late and I was left with my girl, B.

After yet another tearfest with Beth, I headed to the airport to find my gate when my phone started ringing and it was my brother, Abraham!! I was so happy to hear his sweet voice all the way from Kumasi... but the conversation ended up in-- yes, you guessed it! TEARS!

So just when I thought I couldn't get any more emotional, I headed outside onto the tarmac to board the plane, and who is standing there in his cute little uniform-- like an angel from up above, but my Daniel!! One more tearful bearhug and I was on my way up the stairs to board the means to the end of my journey as I knew it.

I remember getting to the top of those stairs before entering the plane and just turning around to look out into the calm night sky and thank God for such an opportunity and all the rich blessings He had placed in my life over the past 8 months. Looking down again at Daniel for a final time, & with his big goofy smile, he waved for me to board the plane now... it was time for me to go.

Unwillingly, I listened to him.

I remember tears streaming down my face as we took off and wishing I could live it all over again... this journey of mine. It had taken me to places both physically and emotionally I never even dreamed of reaching and I am so thankful for each and every opportunity... fun as it was, or hard as it was. Each moment has its special place in 'Jody's Journey in Ghana'.

Now that I am back in Canada, I likely won't be posting any more blogs, but I thank those readers who have tuned in since the beginning! I hope you've enjoyed reading about my journey as much as I enjoyed living the realities of it.

I must thank a few people though for the pivotal roles they played throughout my time in Ghana before closing off my last blog entry...

*************************************

I guess I owe my first thanks to the ones who made it possible for me to even realize this dream of mine of doing a CIDA internship! So thank you to all the staff at Help the Aged Canada for selecting me as one of your interns 2007-08.

Tremendous thanks as well goes to my boss in Ghana, Ebenezer. In most of my times of peril, I would have just been lost without you. Thank you for never hesitating to help me especially when I fell ill, and when I was robbed. You are such a responsible, humble and caring man and I learned so much from being in your midst over the past 8 months. Though my tasks were few, I still managed to learn so much from you about professionalism, respect and trust. You were wonderful to work for, I only wish my time had never expired! Thank you for everything, I have appreciated it all.

To all the staff at HelpAge Ghana and the Osu Day Centre... oh boy, where do I begin? To all the members of the Day Centre... I so enjoyed working with you all back in November-December 07 and getting to know you each a bit better... though that has made it very hard to part now. I learned a lot from you all but most of all, I have enjoyed your company. You're forever in my most treasured memories... thank you.

To the staff of the Day Centre: Auntie Rose, Auntie Amy, sis Irene, bra Eric, Auntie Theresa... you have all left a permanent mark in my heart. Auntie Rose for your no-nonsense, hard-ass motherly love! Thank you for all you gave me while in Ghana.

Auntie Amy, thank you for always being there to help out and the beautiful outfit you had made for me before leaving our Ghana. I hope your toe is better!

Sis Irene... oh, sis Irene... I NEED some banku!! I'll be back for more!! You are my most favorite cook! I hope things are going well with you and your Dad too. Love you sis!

Small bra Eric, you are a true sweetheart. I want you to know I have big dreams for you, and count myself very blessed to have crossed paths with you.

Auntie Theresa... one of THE hardest working elderly women I have ever seen. You amaze me. Though we could never communicate due to language barriers, I hope you know how much you inspired me. You are stronger than you know and I love ya!

To all the hard-working girls who braided my hair in Osu--, and particularly, Emelia. You are so good at what you do and this obroni will be back one day for you to work your magic on my locks again! Thank you girls, God bless you all.

To my internet boys from the beginning, Shadrack and Henry, thank you boys for being part of my journey in Ghana. It meant so much to see you in February Shadrack! Henry, get in touch!!

To my Osu internet boy, Abraham...

braa, you know I love you and am forever here for you. Thank you for all you did for me while in Ghana... you know what I mean! Oh ya, and all the kelewele!! I'm wanting some now!! You have such a beautiful soul and presence, I know your Mom is very proud of you and right there with you as you journey on. Always remember... your sisters are no further away than an email or phone call, we all love you. I miss you so much!

To my CHRAJ boys...

whoda thunk I could have met such endearing friends for life at a work meeting that always ended up in chaos?! To Sammy and Aaron... thanks for always being there with an 'open door' (literally) and so neighborly! You two are so wonderful to know and such good hearted people, always know this. You both definitely are considered some of the cherished treasures I received in Ghana. Thanks for ALL the memories! To crazy Sam and Eric from DAAPU-- you crazy, motorcycle ridin' buddies! Oh, you two made me laugh, but I won't forget the promises I made to you before leaving. Behave and keep in touch, I miss you crazy guys!

Braa Herman, now who's gonna spoil me?! I miss you and your advice! Thank you with all my heart for everything you did for me, you are my shining star. You have one of the biggest and most giving hearts I've ever known. We'll be in touch about the proposal you made me re: Queen mothers, don't worry. Our time together in Ghana isn't yet over! Thank you again braa.

To my Canadian brother, Robin... the means to my life in Ghana! Thank you for agreeing to do that crazy task I asked of you back in July and being so reliable throughout. You are a friend for life and you have no idea how much I appreciated all you did, thank you brother.

Ghanaian braa Nat Nii Noi! If it weren't for you, Nat I'd have sweated a lot more! Thank you SO much for always being so helpful in driving me and my sisters around. We appreciated it. As well, just for being there to always listen... and laugh. I miss you dearly and want you to take good care of yourself and your family. Medo paaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa.

To the boys from wayyyyyyyyyyyyy back in the beginning in our first months that got us acquainted with their homeland-- Koffie, Akiem, Daniel and Godfre THANK YOU so much for all the trips and memories. From our first Shaggy concert, to the engagement party, to the Next Movie Star shenanigans (!) and then finally my departure from the airport in Ghana, it was truly a moment of coming full circle for me. Though we had a lot of ups and downs, I hope you guys know how much I treasure the memories we have together and thank you all for being so welcoming and generous in always making us feel safe and included. You made our transition to Ghana such a smooth one... thank you. And please boys, keep in touch!

Kweku, Jamal, Obed, Black, Mark... and all the others you introduced us to! Thanks for all the memories guys. Some of my funniest moments were spent with you guys in Cape Coast, Winneba or just around Osu/Accra! Thanks for showing us such a good time and take good care of one another, until we meet again!

And for my most treasured discovery while in Ghana...

my sister, Francisca. I never thought I would have to travel all the way to Ghana to find my sister! Oh sis, where do I begin? Thank you for everything. You often had my back better than I ever could, and I miss your worldly wisdom and advice. I seriously know we could have talked for days if ever given the chance! I don't know when I've ever had such a connection to another gal as I have with you. It is very hard for me to be apart from you since we literally spent almost everyday together for 8 months. And not 1 argument! OK, except if it came to chopping! lol I just want you to know that you have deeply touched me and forced me to get in touch again with what I want and don't want out of life. The way you live out your own life is a living example of what I should strive to be. You are wonderful to know sis, and though I miss you each and everyday, it pales in comparison to the love I have for you! Melowe nto nto nto nto....

And my latest edition of inheriting Canadian sisters, Beth and Cait.

Oh girls, it's like we've lived a lifetime experience together... it is now all over and we are left back on our own, to navigate our ways towards whatever our futures hold for us. And it's hard without having you girls right there... we did everything together for the past 8 months and now we're back to just being 'individuals' (who live too damn far apart if you ask me!). I want you both to know that I don't think we could have been better matched to have to live together for 8 months! lol

Beth, you were a worry to me in the beginning (compatibility wise) but as Cait put it to me one day... "you and Beth have grown so close to each other-- you just know how to deal with one another, and then move on"! And we did just that. But perhaps I never told you how much I learned from you... you are one of the hardest-working people I've ever seen! Let me tell you readers-- Beth does not like sitting idle (unless it's to watch a movie) and she keeps herself busy most of the time doing 'things'! 'Things' that make her a dedicated and very hard-working young woman. You are also the forever optimist and always give people the benefit of a doubt, which is so rare these days... it was refreshing to have you in my presence for that. And you are very giving and generous as well, especially when it comes to giving the gift of 'time' to others. You never make people feel as though you just don't have time... and that is such a wonderful trait to have at your age, because it's the basic thing all of us human beings ever need.

Beth, you taught me so much over these past 8 months and I'm a better person for it all. Thank you for all the small things you always did, along with the bigger ones... nothing went unnoticed, trust me. Miss/love you sis Adjoa! Hearts!

And then there is Cait. The one who would ultimately be my grief counsellor for months to come! I never in a million years dreamt I would be living with someone like you... someone I had so much in common with and who had gone through such similar life experiences! I don't think I've cried that much in front of anyone... ever! You were such a blessing to me, Cait and a catalyst in my own healing, concerning the death of our father's in 2004. I loved how you and I could have the best time just 'being' in one another's presence, but I also respected how you never hesitated to put me in my place when I was wrong. You are a sister for life and I miss you everyday. Loves ya Catty!

And special thanks to all those who made it to the airport to see me off: Ebenezer, Nat, Irene, Eric, Francisca, Beth, Koffie and Daniel. I wouldn't have had it any other way! Your presence said it all. Thank you!

If I have forgotten anyone (which is apt to happen with my absent-mindedness!) please forgive me. It doesn't mean I have taken for granted what you have done for me. So I thank you too.

They say in Africa it takes a village to raise a child, and for me, it took the aforementioned village of people to create the beautiful tapestry/kente of memories that will live on in my heart and impact my own future.

As I was told as I was departing, 'this isn't goodbye, just farewell'. I'll be back Ghana... after all, you are my second home!

Thank you again everyone for your contribution to Jody's Journey in Ghana, I carry you all with me along with my beautiful memories... and I always will.

Sending you all my love and thanks as I sign off,

Jody/Adjoa

A few more memories before I go...

Turning 29 in Ghana was definitely a step-up from the low-key birthdays I've celebrated in Canada/USA over the last few years...

and in case you haven't detected so far, the reason why is because I was blessed with 2 great roommates who taught me a lot during our time spent together- including how to have a good time and how to give.

Roommate Beth's 24th birthday is so close to mine (January 30) we had so much fun and cake in a week- made me wish Cait's birthday would fall in between somewhere too!

For Beth's birthday, she wanted us to go out to dinner and salsa dancing (not so much my thing, but it wasn't my day) and I actually had a lot of fun!

Then on February 5, I wanted to eat some good pizza (at Coco Beach of course) and maybe go out bowling! But before that, I had to go to work!

And unbelievably so, I share the same birthday as my boss, Ebenezer!! So we celebrated our day together. Yet another cultural lesson was learned that day when Ebenezer came to ask me what we were going to do for our birthdays... I of course told him in a Canadian way, 'don't worry-- it's a surprise! It's our day to relax and enjoy!'

Confused with my strange answer to him, he proceeded to devise his own contribution to our celebration.

See, contrary to North American standard, in Ghana if it is your birthday, it is up to you to treat your guests. So you, the birthday guy/gal pays for everything for your friends/family to enjoy your special day! Interesting, eh?! So in true Ghanaian style, Ebenezer did buy us snacks and Malta Guinness drinks to go with the delicious peanut butter and chocolate (my most favored combo if you didn't know!) cake made by my girls! And the buggers put on trick candles so I couldn't blow the damn things out! And my boss just thought it was a deliverance from God that the candles wouldn't extinguish when he tried! Laughs all around.

So after work, off I went to Teshie Nungua area with my roommates and we met Akiem and Jamal at Coco Beach. The pizza was so delicious and we ate it seaside with the warm, salty sea breeze keeping us cool. It was a night to remember. Then on our way back, the girls and I decided to go bowling for kicks!

I was also surprised when I managed to get to an internet cafe days later at the amount of birthday email greetings I got, and Facebook messages... thank you to all! I knew I wasn't forgotten! It was a very special memory and I thank everyone (especially you, Cait and Beth along with the HAG staff) for making my day so special and one that continues to live in my memory.

I appreciated everything everyone did for me... thank you so much.

*************************************

So after doing my tour of the North and some of the 'hot spots' along the coast, I got the notion to go as far West as I could along the coast (near Cote d'Ivoire), and then as far East as I could (near Togo).

On January 25 I journeyed to the Volta region with close pal, Jamal to see his hometown of Keta. Keta means 'sand' and most of the streets in Keta are just that! Streets are covered in sand so walking is a real workout! The beaches there were mostly white-sand beaches, but of course littered with garbage. It is known for its beautiful beaches and lagoon, Keta lagoon being the largest in Ghana.

The town of Keta was nearly washed away by eroding tides 20 years ago, and it has only been partly built back up since then. In addition to rebuilding homes, it has been necessary to replant thousands of lost coconut trees on which the people depend for so much. Recently, the Ghanaian government initiated the Keta Sea Defense Project. Efforts from this venture have helped push the ocean back a bit with a rock wall, and some small strips of land across the coast have been reclaimed. But still the threat of further erosion remains.

But throughout the years, the source of the Keta’s greatest sorrows has consistently been the Atlantic Ocean. It washed upon her shores the very first European explorers and thereafter brought in hundreds more to exploit her lands and people for several hundred years. And it was this same ocean that took away from her shores, millions of her children across its waters to foreign lands where they would become enslaved and be treated as animals, for yet another several hundred years.

This same ocean, the Atlantic Ocean, has also for several decades now been eating away at the town of Keta. We all marveled at the 2004 Tsunami and the scope of its destruction. Keta has been experiencing something similar, only that it has been spread out over decades. It is common to hear stories of people having their entire homes washed away by the ocean. There isn’t a single family in Keta which hasn’t been affected in some way or the other by the coastal erosion. So unbelievably sad.

A however unique experience was going to meet some of Jamal's family members and witness the way they live... very simply and humbly. The food one of his Auntie's made for us, banku (=fermented corn, yum! with Jamal's favorite okro and fish stew) was soooooooo good!! I want some now! African Cup was still going on and I recall the match that night was Cameroon vs. Zambia, (I secretly cheered for both teams since I have many Cameroonian friends and spent a month in Zambia back in 2007!) with people gathered all around tv's that had been placed outside on the street for anyone to watch. I felt really spoiled for having been to see a game live... knowing how far that actually was from the thoughts of those surrounding the flickering tv screens.

The next day, Jamal took me to the border town of Aflao (Togo is the neighboring country) which had a crazy, busy border (the one in Paga was nothing compared to this bustling one). Jamal explained to me that so many people would be coming in and out of this border because of the games for African Cup, that's why it was so maddening (a good place to get robbed too, I might add).

On January 27, Jamal and I went to the smaller slave fort in Keta, Fort Prinzenstein built by the Danes in 1784, later used as a slave dungeon for Africans bound for plantations in the U.S. Virgin Islands, about 200-300 yards from the sea. Fort Prinzenstein is the easternmost of a group of forts along the Atlantic coast of Ghana that has been designated as a World Heritage Property. With Keta being slowly washed out to sea, the fort was one of the first casualties, half destroyed by a serious storm in 1980 while still being used as a prison. See my photo's for a better look.

An interesting part of this castle for me was that the slaves actually made the Fort walls out of sea shells and another natural item (maybe coconut?) that you can actually see from the parts of the wall that have been destroyed and split open by the sea.

Now let's turn to face the West coast of Ghana!

For one last trip, my roommates and I went to visit several of the smaller towns on the way to Cote d'Ivoire. We got as far as Beyin, on our way to the Nzulezo stilt village near Axim.

We left on February 19 from Accra, and I was starving (as usual!) along the way and I saw a woman selling chopped up pineapple in a bag (that she had been carrying on her head) and decided to buy some. Keep in mind it was in the middle of the afternoon and we all know from my blog how fregan' hot Ghana is, so the pineapple was warm (as if it had come off of a hot pizza) *first red flag*. And as I was eating, I ate a chunk that tasted alcoholic/fermented in a way *second red flag*. And the journey towards Agona went on.

So my roommates (not me!) wanted to stay in this secluded, primitively-run lodge along the beach with no toilets, outdoor showers, and in a tent.

I however have passed that adventurous phase of my life, and instead wanted a bed with a/c in the room- but thought I'd give in to appease them. Fine.

At dinner time, I started to feel awful (and the food wasn't that good either so I didn't know if it was that or...) but just kept quiet. Then I wanted to bathe and just go lay down in the tent I was sharing with Cait.

I felt so nauseous from when I laid down, I ended up getting up in the night to get some air (it was so hot in the tent) and I sat at the (closed) restaurant in one of their wicker chairs. Moments later, I couldn't help it and began hurling my guts out (like I haven't done in years) everywhere! Off coconut trees, the sand... oh, yuck!

So I rushed to the outhouse (what shitty timing to be nowhere near an actual toilet) and did the same thing 6 more times if you can imagine!! Oh God, was I ever sick.

Needless to say, it was a sleepless night for me (and Cait-- sorry again Catty!) and I just wanted to go back to Accra... but I also wanted to see the village on stilts. So I mustered up enough... I-don't-know-what, and joined the girls to do the 6-hour travel one-way to get there (including an hour paddling in a canoe since it's the only way to reach this village on water!!).

Beautiful as the canoe ride was through the jungle (though too hot), I just wasn't feeling like myself. But I did get to see the Nzulezo stilt village and meet its people.

Upon arrival at the Beyin Wildlife House, we paid for guides to bring us to the stilt village and began gliding on a narrow watery path through a dense tangle of jungle. As I mentioned, the Nzulezo stilt village is very near the border of the Ivory Coast in the Western Region of Ghana. The entire town, including a school, a church and houses stands on stilts. The original inhabitants of the town came from Mali, the town's chief told us, fleeing conflict. Nzulezo is built over the waters of Lake Tandane. Home to about 500 people, several dozen houses flank a connected platform where all aspects of village life are conducted. According to legend, ancestors of the village were brought to this place under the guidance of a snail.

It was very difficult to tease apart the actual facts from what sounded good to the tourist's ear because one of my own first disappointments when we first paddled up to the village was seeing an older, white man cooking in his house on stilts, which was a red flag to me that this was man-made and maybe he was the 'man'?? And the villagers who spoke no English, French, or even Ghanaian languages like Ga or Twi-- didn't seem happy. They seemed void of... something. Like the way a refugee would, I imagine. Something was off... can't quite pin it down, but I left with quite an unsettled feeling.

Alright, now let's bring it back to Accra for a moment...

as one last outing to the beach with roomies in tow and sister Francisca, we decided to go to Bojo beach, which is just outside of Accra's outskirts. My roommates and I actually went to a popular spot, Kokrobite beach the night before to catch the cultural show- but ended up missing it because we were chopping! So on February 9, we all met and went to Bojo beach to enjoy what would be my last day on the beach. I had so much fun swimming in the ocean waters with the girls- rough as it was... you had to be really careful of the undertow. AND, just for fun I ended up with a serious ear infection in both ears that left me in tears throughout the night's that followed until I went to the Dr. The Ear, Nose and Throat specialist said it was one of the worst infections she had seen and I would have to get it checked out again after reaching Canada (all clear now though!).

The craziest and funniest memory of all that us girls will take from this last trip to the beach (or first for Francisca) was how we got back to Accra. We actually hailed down a big rig truck (see my photo's!) to stop and give us a ride down to the main road because the sun and heat were just overwhelming that day. But the friendly driver actually drove us all the way back to Accra! Imagine, us 4 girls in the cab of the truck with this Ghanaian driver, sitting high above all the traffic... highlight of the journey are words that come to mind when I think back. And laughter for days!

The last short trip I'll mention was one I did with Jamal on the weekend of February 16 to Akosombo area. The Akosombo Dam area is the one that feeds all the water supply to Accra and surrounding area on the Volta River. We stayed our first night in Aylo's Bay where I took a canoe ride with some local boys to the Akosombo Bridge, which was very relaxing since the sun was also gently setting behind the mountains.

The next day we boarded the Dodi Princess cruise, which was (supposed to be) a 6-hour cruise along Lake Volta. There was entertainment, good food and variety of people on board but the views weren't that great as it is Harmattan season (The Harmattan is a dry and dusty West African trade wind. It blows south from Sahara into the Gulf of Guinea between the end of November and the middle of March). On its passage over the desert, the Harmattan winds picks up fine dust particles, so there was this constant fog-like haze everywhere.

We stopped at Dodi Island which was a strange step back in time...

it seemed like everyone from the Island came to meet us as we docked. I couldn't help but notice the striking poverty of the residents of this small island. Immediately, as if on cue, a small child attached their hand to yours and began begging... for anything. I walked up to the top of the island (which was so very dry) to see the other side and there was just no sign of life of any kind.

Those who know of my time in Zambia know of the story I have told of the man asking for a pencil for his children to take to school... well this was another case where the infamous pencil came up! Worst part was, I did bring pencils to Ghana for this specific instance, but they remained back in my suitcase in Accra which did me, nor the young girl any good.

We spent about 20 mins. on the island and that was enough for me... in the end I think it's a double-edged sword. I mean, is it really beneficial to have such a stop on the cruise where the Ghanaians living in poverty on the island have a chance to beg the typical wealthy Westerners for something... anything? Or do you look at it as their only opportunity to potentially 'earn' something? (Retrospectively, I don't know how they get food to the island, or transportation even...) I dunno. All I know is it left an unsettled feeling in my heart.

After departing Dodi Island with a heavy heart, we continued on to see the Dam up close and then head back to where we departed from. When we got close to maybe an hour's reach of the dock, the boat broke down! So a 'rescue boat' had to come and push us back to the dock! Oh Ghana!

Before heading back to Accra, Jamal and I stopped at Cedi's Bead Factory in Krobo (between Kpong and Semanya). It's a pretty neat thing to learn how beads are made- we got to see how traditional, Ghanaian beads are made from the crushed glass- to the forming of the design of the bead- to the firing oven (actually made from the clay from termite mounds). The process begins by melting crushed glass in clay molds, or using powdered "white glass" and powdered colors to make beads with patterns on them.

In one of the photo's above, you see me standing with 'Cedi', the bead guy wearing his most expensive piece... a necklace with beads that are all blown from glass (taking months to make) worth well over he said, $1,000. Nervous as I was to wear it, it made the photo opp!

Some other interesting events I partook in over my last 2 months were: teaching a primary school class on the basics of HIV/AIDS in Ashiyie on January 29; as well as attending a seminar on 'consensual unions' (or as we say in Canada, 'common law marriages') put on by WILDAF (Women in Law and Development in Africa) on February 13; and then the following day partaking in events held at both the Osu Day Centre for HAG & the Accra Psychiatric Hospital's male ward to commemorate National Chocolate Day!

Ghana, the world's number 2 cocoa producer, in a bid to boost domestic consumption of cocoa and chocolate, celebrated its 2nd National Chocolate Day on February 14, 2008 better known to most of the world as Valentine's Day.
The idea is to "emphasize the significance of chocolate and cocoa, in the expression of the spirit of love, gift-giving, health' and to celebrate 'Ghana's enviable position in the global cocoa industry". (http://www.haaba.com/news/2008/02/14/7-91294/ghana-marks-national-chocolate-day.html)

One of the Minister's was expected to come speak at the Day Centre, but sent his associate instead and they handed over a tremendous amount of cocoa products to the elderly under HAG's Day Centre. Director Ebenezer asked I snap some photo's of the event. They had the top chocolatier/chef of Ghana there, the media, delegates from Nestle, Cadbury... and the list goes on. After the parcels were distributed, Director and I went to see how things were unfolding at the male ward at the Psychiatric Hospital (February 14 also marks United Way's Day of Caring and this year the Director decided he wanted the geriatric ward of the hospital that HAG adopted, to be the beneficiary by doing repair jobs, painting, cleaning, etc.)

It was nice to see this different spin that Ghanaian's place on over-commercialized Valentine's Day... it's an authentic idea and I hope its purpose in design, was actually achieved so that it can spread to other nations (especially here in North America).

*********************************

Perhaps one of the hardest things I went through in my last months in Ghana was watching yet another person in their 20's lose a parent at too young of an age. My very close pal, Abraham who is just 23 lost his Mom on January 17 from liver failure. He only told me the day before of how deathly ill she was with jaundice and how they were doing all these tests on her to determine the cause.

I was utterly shocked when I went to look for him the next day at work, and his co-worker told me, "Abraham's not here. I learned the Mom died this afternoon".

I was floored. How could this be? How could it have happened just like that?

I went home to inform my roommates and give him a call. He came over later that night, as I guess he knew he had 2 girls who knew exactly what he was going through since Cait and I both lost our fathers in 2004.

The eerie thing is, the girls and I would always say, 'now that we got to attend a wedding here in Ghana, it'd be something to see how they do a funeral here as well'... but we never anticipated it in this way at all.

Abraham's Mom, Florence was buried on February 2 at a seaside ceremony in Teshie Nungua. I was there with Cait, Francisca and Jamal. It was such a personal, touching and moving experience, I had no idea how it would re-open old wounds of mine concerning my own loss. And to have to watch yet another young adult go through it all was almost unbearable.

I was so impressed though at Abraham and his brothers stoic and brave nature throughout it all-- he is quite the special guy.

We went back to Teshie Nungua the following day as well (the way funerals work in Ghana is they can last for just a weekend or even up to an entire week- with the wake and burial being 1 day, and then celebrations of the person's life in the days to follow) to be there for our brother. We ended up taking him out with us that night to watch one of the matches for African Cup on the big screen. It was so good to see him having fun-- even if just for some few moments.

Though it is a bittersweet memory of mine, it did bring Abraham closer to us, in knowing that one doesn't have to go through the deep pain of losing a parent alone. We got to spend a lot of time together and I can honestly say, I even continued to heal myself, through going through all this with him again. And I know through it all, his Mom is looking down on him, his brothers and sister-- so very proud of the wonderful young adults she raised. Miss you bra Abraham!

As always, all any of us ever want is some more 'time'...

it unfortunately it is the one thing that is impossible to retract and even more difficult to accumulate. 'Time' is a funny thing, as it's all we have while here on earth. And it's the very thing so many of us take for granted...

I particularly have no excuse in taking precious time for granted, yet I continue to catch myself getting lost in moments that I could be seizing...

life lessons.

And that's another thing with 'time' is that the life lessons seem to come more frequently to me and have a deeper impact. It's time to make those 'moments'... mine.

So as you can see, my last few months in Ghana were quite emotionally loaded. In looking back, it seems like I lived a lifetime of experiences throughout the 8 months I've been here... and I'm confident that the memories of them will lead me back here one day.

Without a doubt, it certainly was an experience in my lifetime that I'll treasure always.